Quick answer

A slatted fence is built by fixing horizontal timber battens to vertical posts with a consistent gap between each slat — usually 10 – 20mm — to create a modern, semi-open screen that gives privacy while still letting light and air through. You can build one from scratch with treated battens and posts, or use ready-made slatted panels for a faster fit. Most domestic slatted fences are 1.5 – 1.8m high and take a weekend to install along a standard garden boundary.
 

Slatted fence vs. panel: which should you choose?

	Built from battens	Pre-made slatted panels
Best for	Bespoke lengths, sloped gardens, a fully custom look	Standard boundary runs, faster installs
Install time	Longer — measuring, spacing, fixing each slat	Quick — drops between posts like standard fencing
Customisation	Full control over gap width, slat width, pattern	Fixed gap and slat width, but a consistent finish
Skill level	Moderate – high (needs accurate, consistent spacing)	Low – moderate (similar to standard panel fencing)

Speak to our team about current pricing on slatted fence panels and loose battens — cost depends on height, timber grade and treatment.

Our take: if you want a quick, reliable upgrade to a standard garden boundary, pre-made slatted panels are the easiest route. If you’re working around an odd-shaped plot, a slope, or want a specific gap-to-slat ratio, building from battens gives you full control.

Tools and materials checklist

Materials

• Treated timber battens (wider boards give more privacy, narrower boards feel more open) or pre-made slatted fence panels

• Fence posts, sized and treated correctly for the job (see section below) — browse our timber posts and gravel boards range

• Post mix (postcrete) for securing posts — see our guide on what you need to install a fence for quantities and specification

• A gravel board along the base, to keep timber clear of soil contact

• Galvanised or stainless steel nails/screws

• Timber spacers, or offcuts cut to your chosen gap size

• A preservative, stain or paint if you want a specific colour finish rather than a natural silvered look

Tools

• Spirit level and string line

• Post hole digger or spade

• Tape measure

• Saw (if cutting battens to length)

• Nail gun or drill/driver

• Clamps (useful for holding slats steady while fixing)

Choosing your posts: sizing and treatment class

This is a detail that’s easy to get wrong and expensive to get wrong.

• Treatment class: any post going into the ground needs to be treated for ground contact — known in the industry as Use Class 4 (UC4) treatment. This is a different, more resistant specification to timber that only sits above ground, so always check this before you buy.

• Post size: as a general rule, 75x75mm posts are adequate for lighter, decorative slatted screens, while 100x100mm posts are the safer choice for taller, heavier or fully enclosed slatted runs, where wind loading on a more solid-looking fence is greater.

• Post length: buy posts roughly 600mm longer than your finished fence height, to allow for the portion that sits below ground.

• Guarantees: our PermaTimber® posts carry a 15-year guarantee against fungal decay and wood-destroying insects and are WPA Benchmark approved — worth checking whatever posts you buy for an equivalent standard.

Spacing and gap ratios: getting the look right

This is the detail most guides skip, and it’s the difference between a fence that looks deliberate and one that looks like an afterthought.

Look you want	Slat width	Gap size	Best for
Maximum privacy, still contemporary	Wider battens	Narrower gap (approx. 10mm)	Boundary fencing, overlooked gardens
Balanced privacy and airflow	Mid-width battens	Moderate gap (approx. 15 – 20mm)	Most standard garden fences
Open, decorative screen	Narrower battens	Wider gap (approx. 20 – 30mm)	Side screens, garden dividers, planting backdrops

Rule of thumb: the wider the gap relative to the slat, the more open and ​‘screen-like’ the fence feels — good for a garden divider, less good if you need genuine privacy from neighbours.

Use two offcuts cut to your chosen gap size as spacers, and lay them on top of the last slat before fixing the next — this keeps every gap identical without measuring each one individually.

Working out how many battens you need

A quick way to estimate quantities before you order:

Number of slats needed = fence height ÷ (batten width + gap size)

For example, if you’re using 94mm-wide battens with a 15mm gap, each ​‘row’ (batten + gap) takes up 109mm of height. For a 1.8m (1,800mm) high fence, that’s roughly 1,800 ÷ 109 ≈ 16 – 17 battens per post-to-post run.

Multiply that by the number of bays (post-to-post sections) in your total run to get your full materials count, and always order a little extra to allow for cutting waste and mistakes.

Step-by-step: building a slatted fence from battens

1. Plan your layout

Measure the full run and decide your finished height. Anything over 2m generally requires planning permission in the UK, so most garden slatted fences sit at 1.5 – 1.8m. Decide your slat width and gap now (see table above) so you can calculate exactly how many battens you’ll need.

2. Set your posts

If you’re not fixing to existing posts, space new posts no more than 1.8 – 2.4m apart — any wider and softwood battens can bow over time. Dig holes to a depth of roughly a third of the post’s total length, add a layer of gravel at the base for drainage, then set the post using a spirit level to check it’s plumb on all sides before securing with post mix. For full details on depth, drainage and quantities of post mix, see our guide on how to install a fence post.

3. Fit a gravel board

Run a pressure-treated gravel board along the base between posts. This keeps your bottom slat clear of the ground, preventing moisture absorption that shortens the fence’s life.

4. Fix your first slat

Starting at the bottom, fix your first batten dead level — every other slat will be set relative to this one, so take the time to get it right.

If you would rather not build the fence board by board, our ready-made slatted fence panels simply fix between your posts. Each one is assembled, treated and guaranteed for 10 years. 

5. Space and fix each subsequent row

Lay your spacers on top of the fixed slat, rest the next batten on them, push down firmly, and fix into place. Remove the spacers, move them to the top of the new slat, and repeat until you reach the top of the posts.

6. Finish and protect

Let new timber dry out fully before treating, especially if it’s been recently delivered or it’s warm weather. Leave it natural to silver over time, or apply a preservative, stain or paint for a specific colour. Whatever finish you choose, plan to re-treat every 2 – 3 years to keep it protected.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Inconsistent gaps — even a small variation is visible once you stand back. Always use spacers rather than eyeballing it.

• Posts spaced too far apart — leads to bowing battens within a year or two. Stick to 1.8 – 2.4m maximum between posts.

• Using the wrong treatment class — a post that isn’t UC4-rated for ground contact will fail years before it should.

• Skipping the gravel board — one of the most common causes of premature rot at the base of a slatted fence.

• Treating timber too soon after delivery — let it dry out fully first, or you risk trapping moisture in.

• Not checking planning rules for height — anything over 2m may need permission; always confirm with your local authority before you build.

If you decide a horizontal slatted look isn’t quite the right fit for your garden, closeboard fencing is the traditional alternative. Vertical feather edge boards give you a solid, private boundary that still uses the same posts and rails you’d budget for a slatted build.. Vertical

For anyone who wants a similarly robust finish without cutting and fixing every board on site, our ready-made closeboard fence panels slot straight between standard posts and come with a 10-year guarantee.

FAQs

What’s the best gap size for a slatted fence?

For most UK gardens, a gap of around 10 – 20mm gives a good balance of privacy and airflow. Go narrower if the fence needs to screen a specific view; wider if it’s more decorative than functional.

Do I need planning permission for a slatted fence?

Generally, garden fences up to 2m don’t need planning permission. If your fence borders a highway, the limit drops to 1m. Always check with your local council if you’re unsure.

Can I build a slatted fence without removing my existing panels?

Yes, if your existing posts are sound and correctly spaced, you can fix battens directly to them. If posts are more than 1.8m apart, we’d recommend adding an intermediate post for stability.

What’s the difference between UC3 and UC4 treated timber, and which do I need?

UC3 is suitable for timber that’s above ground but exposed to the weather, such as fence battens. UC4 is required for anything going into ground contact, such as posts. Using the wrong class in the ground significantly shortens the life of the timber.

Slatted panels or build from scratch — which is cheaper?

Building from loose battens is usually cheaper on materials but takes considerably longer to install. Pre-made panels tend to cost more but cut installation time significantly — worth factoring in if you’re paying for labour.

Can a slatted fence be built with composite materials instead of timber?

Yes, though composite battens cost more upfront. They need less ongoing maintenance (no staining or oiling) but don’t weather to the same natural silver-grey that timber does.

Related Guides

• How to install a fence post

• What you need to install a fence

• Fence panels: the full range

• Wooden trellis panels

Prefer to Skip the Build?

Our slatted fence panels arrive fully assembled from our Wye Valley workshop, so there is no cutting, spacing or fixing to do. Each panel is manufactured from planed, joinery-grade pine with a strong rebated frame and then pressure-treated for long service life outdoors. Every panel is covered by our 10-year guarantee against manufacturing defects and fungal decay.

• Manufactured in Britain by Walford Timber since 1945
• Pressure-treated to resist rot and insect attack
• 10-year guarantee as standard
• Collect from Ross-on-Wye, Cheltenham or Chesham, or have it delivered

Buy slatted fence panels