Where you have an area of heavy foot traffic or for use in commercial/public applications (pubs/hotels/golf courses/holiday lodges etc) we recommend you look at our specialist anti-slip decking with resin and grit inlays to provide better traction.
Installation Advice – Raised Decking
Before you start
Depending on the type of deck you wish to build and its level of complexity, building your deck may be more than a one person job so it’s always a good idea to have someone assisting you.
You must ensure that there are no cables or pipes underneath where you want to dig out your deck area and if there are consider if you will need easy access to these before you start.
Typical materials needed:
Decking boards, joists, joist hangers, decking screws and fixings, timber treatment, balustrade components, geotextile membrane, gravel, quick drying concrete.
Typical tools needed:
Tape measure, builder’s line or string, hammer, saw, screwdriver, half-moon lawn edger, spade, spirit level, builders square, and pencil.
- Measure out the site and run a builder’s line from corner to corner to help visualise the site.
- Clear away all vegetation and rocks within this marked site.
- If clearing turf, its best to use a lawn edger and remove the grass with a spade.
Square the sides
- It’s best to ensure that the sides of the deck are completely square as the decking will be laid with joist support posts concreted into position that once installed cannot be easily moved if in the wrong place
- When you have positioned everything it’s a good idea to run a string diagonally from corner to corner. If it’s the same length each time your corners are square.
Fixing the joists posts
- If your raised decking is being sited next to your home you need to fit a joist directly to the wall and then the frame is built from this first timber.
- For joist posts, these need to be sunk each time into an approx 700mm deep hole in the ground and then set squarely in place with quick-drying postcrete approx. 1500mm apart. Check they are level and the same height using a line and spirit level.
- Finally, when the posts have hardened off and are secure, fit a sheet of geotextile membrane around the posts and cover it with gravel to stop weed growth.
Building your joist frame
- Cut the outer joists of the sub-frame to length, remembering to allow for overlapping corner joints.
- For extra strength, it’s a good idea to put two support beams onto every second post along the length of the deck.
- Cut the inner joists to length and attach to the outer joists.
- For timber deck boards in a horizontal pattern, the joist centres should normally be a maximum of 450mm apart and 300mm if laying diagonally.
- If you are having a balustrade on your decking, it’s easier to attach it after you’ve built the sub-frame, but before you lay the deck boards so you can slot them to fit around them.
Laying Decking Boards
- Your decking boards need to run in the opposite direction to the joists.
- It’s best to lay boards at the outer edge of the sub-frame and move inwards.
If you require help making sure you get the right product for your project or more advice on installation please call us on 01989 940 027 and our experienced staff will be glad to help. If you prefer not to undertake the project yourself ask our team for details of our local network of installers. They’ll be able to come along to your home, listen to what you want to achieve and advise on the best solutions, before measuring and supplying a no obligation, free quote including everything for you from sourcing materials to delivery and fitting your new deck area.